Each Cook Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.
A Unexpected Accolade
The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the owners totally shocked.
“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Charm of Simplicity
The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.
The Namesake Offering: Tantuni
In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.
It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
Other Than the Classic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.
Outranking the Titans
Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.
The Ethos of Heart
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
A Journey of Dedication
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
An Accomplishment for the People
The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.
